Monthly Archives: March 2015

First Battlesystem Skirmish

It’s weird how I’ve been into miniatures and roleplaying since fifth grade, but I never actually played a miniatures game until I was in college. Then, like many others I got roped into Warhammer and 40K. I completely missed out on Battlesystem. Wizards of the Coast just released a new free ruleset compatible with 5th Ed. AD&D, but I have no interest in using the new version of AD&D. The old rules are found easily enough on eBay, and they’re based on 2nd Edition AD&D (the version I played all through high school and college) so I picked up a copy.

We got more snow over the weekend (because we really needed more of it), and I had just finished my highlander warband, so I figured why not try the skirmish rules out? So here’s my first Battlesystem  Skirmishes After Action Report!

I chose Highlanders vs. Orcs as the forces. The highlanders were made up of two clans: The Mac Layrs (Green/Blue) and the Rennies (Red/Blue). I split them into separate units based on clan. Bran Mac Layr was the commander (a level 6 hero), and he was supported by Rory Mac Layr, (a level 3 cleric). The remaining 2 Mac Layrs were generic level 1 human fighters. The Rennies were all level 1 human fighters.

The orcs were led by Varg (Level 2 orc leader). Varg commanded 4 Level 1 orcs. Also on the orcs side was Gogzarak, an ogre (Level 4 monster). As a monster, he can move and act independently. I used the generic stats provided in the Battlesystem rulebook for all the miniatures.

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The orcs and the ogre are attacking the highlander settlement in the hopes of grabbing some sheep. The highlanders are trying to stop them. (Insert your own highlander/sheep joke here.) I deployed the Rennies in the pasture and the Mac Layrs in front of the houses. The orcs were deployed in the woods, and Gogzarak was deployed on his own, across from the Mac Layrs.

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That’s Bran Mac Layr with the claymore, near the well.  Rory Mac Layr (the cleric) is all the way on the right.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Rennies are among the sheep.

 

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Varg is leading his orcs out of the woods.

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Gogzarak the ogre is on his own, taunting the Mac Layrs.

 

ROUND 1:

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The monsters win initiative, which means the highlanders move first. Using this cool bendy-ruler, I measured out their full move (12″). No way are the Mac Layrs letting some scummy ogre get anywhere near their houses! Unfortunately, this puts them well within the ogre’s charge range.

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Gogzarak charges Bran Mac Layr, bellowing as ogres do. He smacks Bran for 1 hit. Bran responds, but rolls a 1. He misses, and initiative immediately switches to the highlanders (weird rule).

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In the pasture, the Rennies move to intercept the orcs as the come out of the woods. Neither side can reach melee this round.

ROUND 2

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The Rennies charge into combat. Two of them concentrate on Varg, the leader, while the other closes with an orc. The strategy pays off as both Rennies score hits and Varg dies. In response, one of the orcs kills one of the Rennies.

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Meanwhile, Rory Mac Layr moves to the hilltop to better support both units. He casts Bless on the Rennies, giving them +1 to THAC0 and +1 to Morale. But it’s the orcs that have to check morale this round since their leader was killed. They pass and stay to fight.

The other  Mac Layrs all attack Gogzarak, and he attacks back, but no one hits anybody.

ROUND 3

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Bran Mac Layr circles Gogzarak  to get the +2 THAC0 bonus a rear attack gives. The other Mac Layrs flank the ogre. Bran hits Gogzarak for 2 hits! The other Mac Layrs miss. So does Gogzarak. Hoping to further support the Rennies, Rory Mac Layr casts Hold Person, rooting two orcs to the spot.

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However, despite his support, the two unhindered orcs still manage to cut down the Rennies like cornstalks.

ROUND 4

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The two orcs who are still able to move break off and move towards the cleric on the hill. The Mac Layrs and Gogzarak fight another ineffective round of combat with no casualites. Seeing two orcs approaching his position with ill intent, Rory casts his final spell: Cause Light Wounds. One of the orcs drops dead halfway up the hill. The remaining orc checks morale as he had to form a new unit as a result of combat (the other orcs couldn’t move with him because they were held). He fails and is shaken.

ROUND 5

Bran kills Gogzarak. The orc rallies. (Sorry, no picture.)

ROUND 6

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The lone orc charges the cleric while the Mac Layrs circle the hill. Even though the cleric has +1 THAC0 due to being on a higher elevation, he misses. The orc wounds the cleric for 1 hit.

ROUND 7

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Rounding the hill, the Mac Layrs spy the held orcs and charge. Showing no mercy, they put the filthy greenskins to the sword!

Bran charges the orc from behind, but misses. So does the orc and so does the cleric.

ROUND 8

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Bran Mac Layr kills the last remaining orc, cleaving him in twain from behind. Victory to the highlanders! Alas, the proud Rennie clan has fallen. Cue the bagpipes!

ANALYSIS:

Battlesystem Skirmishes is pretty easy to learn, especially if you have ever played 2nd Edition AD&D. This whole game took about 25 minutes to play, including the time I took looking up rules and taking pictures. It seems the forces were unbalanced in favor of the highlanders, despite the monsters having more points on their side. I purposely didn’t use missile weapons, which may have altered the battle for both sides.

The cleric seemed to make the most difference in this game. Although his Bless spell didn’t do much, his other two spells really made a difference in how the game played out. If I played this skirmish again I would bulk up the monsters a bit by giving them missile weapons or maybe a shaman of their own.

 

 

Scots Wha Ha’e!

I painted up some Reaper Highlanders for use as a warband in Battlesystem. I’ve had most of these miniatures for a while now, but I didn’t like the way they were painted, so I stripped them and repainted them. I’m happy with the results.

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These guys are some of Reaper’s earliest releases. I don’t think they’re part of their current line, but you can still get them on the website. This is my first real effort at painting tartans. While there are many different tutorials online, I used Trojan Art Painting’s method. I used a blue/green tartan for these guys above.

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I did a small conversion on the Highlander on the left above, adding arrows to his shield. The arrows are brass rod with fletching made from green stuff. I went with a red/blue tartan on these three.

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The last two models are a piper and a druid. I made another slight modification to the piper by removing his fourth drone pipe. I like the look of the 3-drone highland bagpipe better. His tartan is gray/black with red and yellow accents. I painted the druid in white robes to make him stand out more. Weird how he’s clutching wheat instead of mistletoe. Trying to make it look like mistletoe would just look like green wheat, so I didn’t try.

I played my first ever game of Battlesystem with these guys over the weekend. Batrep in the next post!

Product Review: Pegasus Hobbies Palm Trees Series A

I recently bought a couple of boxes of these Palm Trees for use in some tropical Pulp gaming. Here are my thoughts.

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First, I wish I thought to take pictures of the assembly and unboxing, but if you want that you can check out Tabletop Lenny’s video here. Second, these are Palm Trees Series A, which is a box of 5 trees. These differ from Series B which only has 3 trees per box. Series B trees are much larger and feature a different type of leaf.

PROS:

  • $8.50 a box retail. Pretty cheap!
  • Very easy to assemble once they’re prepared.
  • They look great right out of the box, no painting necessary.
  • They’re listed as 1/72 scale, which means they work well with 15mm-28mm miniatures.

CONS:

  • They’re kind of a pain in the ass to prepare. The leaves require a fair bit of trimming but once this is done, so is 90% of your work.

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Once I assembled them, I based them on cork tiles and added some rocks. I painted the bases but didn’t bother with the trees themselves. Painting the leaves would be a nightmare, and anyway, they look great as is! The picture above shows some 28mm Pulp Figures Melanesian Island Warriors for scale.

SHOULD YOU BUY THEM?

Absolutely. They’re cheap, easy to assemble, and they look fantastic. Thumbs up!

 

Product Review: Plastcraft Western Buildings

Production of my south-of-the-border town of Mescalero has slowed while I try to figure out some problems with the church roof. With all the amazing new Western buildings available from companies like 4Ground, Game On and Knuckleduster, to name a few, I thought I might as well start putting together a more traditional Western town. The trouble is those laser-cut MDF buildings can get pricey pretty quick.

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I first saw these PlastCraft Western Buildings on Miniature Market and I figured I’d give them a try. The kits are all basically the same, although the front of each building is different, and some have awnings while some do not. Each building kit comes with a resin door and window (varies by kit). You can’t beat the price: at less than $5 each I bought all six varieties.

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I posed some 28mm Blue Moon cowboys with these buildings to give you an idea of the scale. As you can see, the buildings are pretty small for 28mm and might be better suited to 15mm. The roofs are not designed to be removable, but I guess you don’t have to permanently attach them if you don’t want to. Regardless, the interiors are so small that there’s really no point in not attaching them.

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I have mixed feelings about these kits. I’ll give you my personal pros and cons, as well as discuss how I assembled them. I wish I had thought to take pictures of them before assembly, but I didn’t think I’d be writing a review of them. Sorry.

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  • The price. For less than $5 apiece, they make perfectly good small shops and won’t break your scenery budget.
  • Once assembled and painted, they look nice enough.
  • Once primed, the material takes paint well. Inexpensive craft paint was made for  projects like this!
  • You get a lot of extra card left over for each building, which is great for use in other projects, or to dress up these buildings (see below).

CONS:

  • The kits are somewhat fiddly to assemble, especially the awnings. Expect to get glue on your fingers.
  • The resin doors and windows do not often fit snugly into the holes. There’s usually a gap, so you need to fill it with Green Stuff or something else.
  • There is absolutely no texture to these buildings. Either you need to paint it to look like wood boards, or you need to score the material first. I opted for the latter. It’s easy enough to score, and it looks much better when assembled.
  • The signs, like the building walls, are just blank card.  Which means either stenciling, painting freehand, or doing what I did; which is printing out the name of the business in Playbill font and glueing it to the sign. The downside to this is it looks bright. I guess I could have used some other paper, but for the amount of use these buildings are going to get, it wasn’t worth it.
  • All of the above makes assembling these buildings a more time-consuming task than you might think.

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OVERALL:

The low price makes it easy to overlook the annoyances. These kits would compliment some nicer buildings by the abovementioned companies, or may provide adequate scenery for a small outdoor skirmish on their own. You may notice I used some extra card bits to make signs on a couple of buildings like the one above. It won’t win any awards, but it adds a little something extra. You get plenty of leftover card to use in any way you see fit. For example, I considered making a plank bridge from one building roof to another, but scrapped the idea.

After I painted them, I realized my Western buildings look pretty bright and clean! I’m thinking of adding some weathering pigments to them to dirty them up a bit. You could paint them with less color to give them a more hastily-constructed or ramshackle look, if you prefer.

SHOULD YOU BUY THEM?

Yeah, if you’re looking to add a little extra to a town or if you’re on a tight budget (or both). As long as you have the patience to assemble them, these kits are fine for what they are, and a steal at the price.

Brother Jerrod

Recently, one of my gaming buddies stepped up and decided to run a GURPS Fantasy game. I decided to play a monk so that I could make use of the fantastic 4th Edition GURPS Martial Arts rules. I give you…Brother Jerrod!

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The miniature is Reaper’s Friar Stone, Travelling Monk (03205), sculpted by Tre Manor. I bought and painted the miniature long before my friend decided to run this game, but once he did, I immediately wanted to use this miniature for my character. Brother Jerrod is a blast to play. He’s a jovial, garrulous fellow with a voice like Brian Blessed after drinking a quart of scotch.  I created his unique martial arts style to compliment his constant state of drunkenness.  In fact, more than once I was fully committed to my roleplaying and got more than a little drunk myself.

Good times.

Although I went into great detail creating his fighting style and giving amusing names to his maneuvers (Tip the Jug, Bear Stuns the Trout, etc.), I left the details of his religious order intentionally vague. It wasn’t going to be a big part of the game, and Brother Jerrod probably doesn’t remember much of his order’s precepts anyway. He’s too busy getting (and staying) drunk to care.

 

Some Old-School Miniatures

I went on a bit of a buying spree these past few months on some old Grenadier and Ral-Partha stuff. Mind you, I already have a ton of this stuff from my days of youth, but lately I’ve been feeling somewhat nostalgic. I present to you some of my recent painting efforts.

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Up first are these two knights. Both are repaints of miniatures I first painted when I thought using Testors gloss enamel was a great idea. I’ve been trying to identify them from The Lost Minis Wiki, but I haven’t been able to. I could have sworn they were Grenadier or Ral Partha, as I’ve had them since the early 80’s at least. For some reason I want to say the guy on the right was labeled a cavalier, but I’m not 100% on this. Anyway, they both have morningstars (or maces-and-chain, depending on who you ask), and that wasn’t so common on miniatures in those days. Any assistance identifying these guys would be most appreciated.

UPDATE: Thanks to some fellow enthusiasts on The Miniatures Page, I found out that the one on the left is from Superior Miniatures (Knight with Mace-and-Chain). The one on the right is from TSR, part of their “AD&D Heroes boxed set. And sure enough, he’s a cavalier!

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I love miniatures that tell a story and aren’t just “generic guy holding weapon”. This one is an old miniature I bought recently. It was part of Grenadier’s “Woodland Adventurers” boxed set. I don’t have the rest of the set, but I love this halfling sniper. This is not a repaint. In fact, I don’t believe this miniature was ever painted before I got him.

I’m under a pile of lead now, but I’m going to continue to take a break and paint (or repaint) some of these old miniatures every now and then.