AD&D Campaign: The Tears of Yevona

Once again, I figured I’d share some of the miniatures I’ve been using for my ongoing Advanced Dungeons & Dragons 3.5 campaign.  If you’re inclined to check out more, you can find some earlier posts here and here.

 

The Player Characters

First up, the PCs. Left to right: Elvar, the mage; Azrael, the bard, and Dematose, the cleric. Elvar is Reaper’s Halmar, Young Wizard (Reaper 03449). He is holding an uncorked potion bottle in his hand, and what I painted as flame is supposed to be vapor, I guess. I kind of like the flame look, even though I clearly suck at painting fire. Azrael is a Dark Sword bard from their Elmore Masterworks line. Dark Sword makes some incredible miniatures, and this may very well be the best bard I’ve ever seen. I’m ok with the paint job, even though my diamond pattern kind of fell apart halfway through. Dematose is Privateer Press’s Bastian Kinnet, Battle Chaplain of Morrow. I’m really happy with the way he turned out. Missing from the group is the ranger, Gough. He’s missing because his player owns the miniature and wanted to paint it himself. Of course, 2 years into the campaign, he’s not fully painted yet, even though my friend has painted other miniatures in the meantime. This is because my friend is a shithead.

This is not my friend’s paint job.

 

If interested, this is the miniature he chose for Gough. it’s another Dark Sword miniature, this time from their George R. R. Martin line: Wildling with Great Axe. Very cool.

The Butcher Bruvvers

If you followed the first link above, then you know who the Cudgel Gang is. When the players last encountered the Cudgel Gang, they left a few of them alive, including the dastardly leader, Quin Payden. Well, since then, Quin added some new recruits to the Cudgel Gang, and even replaced the ones who died with  some thugs who look remarkably similar. Above are the two newest recruits, the Butcher Bruvvers. These are Heartbreaker Miniatures: Half-Troll with Ball and Chain and Half-Troll with Club, from their fantasy sculptors line. In their recent rematch, the PCs got some much-wanted revenge. They managed to kill almost every member of the Cudgel Gang, including the Butcher Bruvvers. The only one who escaped was (you guessed it) Quin Payden, vowing revenge. It’s a good bet he’ll turn up again.

The toughest fairies you’ll ever meet.

Not long ago, the PCs wandered into a faerie ring and were shrunk down to tiny size. They were promptly taken captive by faeries. Since I think most faerie miniatures look like, well, fairies, I decided to use these RAFM Dark Elves instead. They’d been laying around unpainted since the early 90’s, and it gave me an excuse to paint them. Soon afterwards, the PCs were given a chance to win their freedom if they could perform a service for the Faerie Queene. She sent them on the very dangerous errand of stealing the crown of Tarkhagal, the Spider King.

Spiders!

Not surprisingly, the Spider King had a lot of spiders around as guards. The PCs had to fight their way to him, defeating swarms of these guys in the process. The tiny spiders are from Mississinewa Miniatures. The big yellow ones are from Reaper (Reaper 03055). I painted them the color and pattern of an orb spider I found online, and based them with some Halloween decoration cobwebs. In the game, the small ones attacked in swarms and had weak poison. The yellow ones shot webbing and had stronger poison.

The Spider King?

Finally the party came face to face with the Spider King. Or did they? This is Meepo, a goblin who wandered into the faerie ring years ago and escaped the faeries, only to  fall into the Spider King’s lair. For whatever reason, Meepo was immune to the deadly effects of the spider venom. Instead, it drove him mad and increased his physical attributes. The real Spider King kept him around for amusement. Meepo is an old-school Warhammer Forest Goblin Spider Rider. While I have a huge WFB Orc and Goblin army, I never used Spider Riders because I thought they looked silly. (The new ones are much cooler- looking.) I had this guy laying around though, probably the result of a trade made long ago. I figured I’d put him to use as a boss, and here he is.

The SPIDER KING!

After a long battle with lots of spiders and a crazed goblin, the PCs thought they had killed the real Spider King.  On their way out, however, they got a rude awakening. The real Spider King, Tarkhagal, dropped from his lair in the ceiling and blocked their exit. That’s him above. I looked high and low for a little crown bit I could use for this big spider, but I couldn’t find one. I even looked at charms for bracelets. No dice. Tarkhagal is Reaper’s Huge Spider (03049), and he is huge. His leg span wouldn’t even fit on a 60mm base. I should have included a picture of a regular 28mm miniature for comparison. He’s about 3 times the size of one of the yellow spiders above.

Well, the bloodied, weary and poisoned characters managed to subdue Tarkhagal and take his crown, thus winning their freedom from the faeries. They’re currently back to their normal size and continuing on their adventure.

What’s Old is New

I’ve been on a bit of an old-school miniatures kick lately, no doubt inspired by guys like the Old School Grenadier Miniatures blog (now sadly gone, it seems).

A bit about that. I first started painting minitures in the 5th grade. Since I’m 40, I’ve been at it a while. I don’t claim to be a master painter; I learn more and more every day. But back then, and pretty much right through high school, I truly sucked at it. I painted all my miniatures with Testors gloss enamel paint, which doesn’t lend itself to shading, highlighting, mixing, or just painting in general. Not that I made any attempt whatsoever at any of those techniques. Most of my miniatures looked pretty gloopy.

It wasn’t until I started playing Warhammer and 40K in college that I discovered acrylic paint. A huge difference for sure. And although I have little love left for GW, I learned a lot from their publications and my painting dramatically improved in a relatively short period of time. Since I was building armies to game with, I painted GW figures pretty much exclusively from the early 90’s -2000 or so.  Around 2003,  I took a long hiatus from both wargaming and painting, having to pack up my paints and miniatures in storage. I only started up again about 3 years ago, and now I can’t stop.

Partly because of nostaligia and partly because I look at them and cringe, I’ve decided that in between my regular projects I’ll give some of my earliest efforts the repainting they so desperately need. Here are some of them.

Everyone I know who collected miniatures back in the early 80’s had the guy on the left. He’s from the Fantasy Lords set 121: Knights. I think he’s a pretty cool miniature from that time, plus he has a bec-de-corbin. How many miniatures do you own that are similarly equipped? Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of him with his old paint job, which was a true atrocity. I never bothered to base any miniatures before I started playing Warhammer, and I see no reason to base them for repaints. Next to him is a Ral Partha Dwarf: I can’t find the number. If any of you can, I’d appreciate you telling me. I recall he was in a blister labeled “Conquistador Dwarf”, but I’ve also seen him referred to as a “Dwarf Champion”. This guy never had any paint on him before now, so there was no “before” picture to take. I did base this guy, because I’ll probably be using him in my AD&D campaign as an NPC. I’m pretty happy with the way they both turned out.

Here’s an example of my work back then. Note the lovely Testors glossy flesh color on the charging halberdier. Impressive, no? Now just imagine if he had a face, how good that would look, and you get the idea of the general quality of my painting back then.

These are the repaints. The miniatures are some classics from that era: Ral Partha’s Chaotic Knights of the Skull (01-137). Like many of the miniatures of this time, scale was all over the place. These were supposed to be 25mm miniatures but they’re more like 32mm. The halberdier’s legs are far enough apart that you could fit the knight in the first picture within  his stride.  Although I think they’re both kind of silly, they were easy and quick to paint in between my current projects. I still don’t like the miniatures, but I like to think my paint job has improved over 25 years.

I think I’ll keep repainting old stuff and posting the results from time to time.

My Pile of Insanity

Like most miniatures enthusiasts, I have an ever-increasing mountain of unpainted lead and plastic that might one day get me my own episode of Hoarders.

Well, I will not go gentle into that good night, friends. I’m doing something about it. They say the first step is to admit you have a problem. Well, I submit to you my pile of insanity. Judge not lest ye be judged. I know some of you are worse.

First up: my desk. Thousands of miniatures have been painted and, in some cases, repainted here. Considering 90% of the painting I do nowadays is for the AD&D campaign I’m running, I have to be careful about what I show so as not to give my players any warning of what’s coming. In front of the paint rack is a group of miniatures, most of which are primed black. Some have been in this state for YEARS. The current project is a group of 10 Wargames Factory Zombie Vixens. Once these are done I have 20 more to paint. You may notice the backscratcher on the right. Highly recommended for those of us who spend hours painting hunched over.

This rack contains leftover bits on sprues,  Plano cases full of painted miniatures (don’t count), old boxed sets of Grenadier and Ral Partha miniatures (one day I’ll get around to repainting them), basing materials and supplies, etc. All the white card boxes are full of Heroclix miniatures, sorted by team. There are some hidden gems here, too. For example, I have about 40 Rogue Trader Beakie Space Marines, still on the sprue. I’m saving them for a rainy day.

Here is one side of my closet. The miniatures are on the second shelf, all unpainted: boxed sets of Wyrd, Confrontation, Alkemy and Privateer Press stuff; an unopened High Elf Battle Ready Battalion; an unopened WFB Battle of Skull Pass; several unopened regiments of High Elves, including a Cavalry Patrol; my Cawdor Necromunda Gang; some Warzone stuff I bought just because I liked it; a box of Defiance UAMC Marines; a box of Wargames Factory Shock Troopers (soon to be joined by 2 more boxes en route); a Reaper Dwarf Cannon; some Mantic Dwarfs, a box of Judge Dredd Gangers I bought at Gen Con for 5 bucks; and a Clan War Crab Regiment to go with the Clan War base set I haven’t painted. It’s over by the Space Hulk game that has all unpainted miniatures in it, too.

Below that are three shelves full of mostly unpainted scenery. Yes, that’s an original Warhammer Mighty Fortress. I’ve never used it, but that doesn’t mean I won’t. Three boxes of Pegasus Gothic buildings and ruins share the same shelf, along with a GW Chapel. (All those tackle boxes and miniatures cases have painted WFB and 40K armies in them, so they don’t count towards the pile of insanity.)

Here’s the other side of my closet, just for the hell of it. No miniatures here, just RPGs and card binders.

You could dive into this and never come up.

And lastly, here’s the box o’blisters. Way too much stuff to list here individually, but Reaper, Hasslefree, Pulp Figures, Armorcast, Warhammer FB, Privateer Press, Confrontation, Moonlight Miniatures, East Riding Miniatures, Wyrd, Killer B, Bronze Age, Rattrap and plenty of nameless and/or forgotten miniatures companies have at least one and most likely more than one blister in here.

If I was so inclined, I could count all the unpainted miniatures I have to paint. But I’m not so inclined.

After a recent barrage of orders, I decided I need to do something about this. I can’t keep buying stuff and not painting it. That’s craziness. So I’m doing what others in this hobby of ours have done. I’m making a plan.

Ten miniatures a week. If I can do ten miniatures a week and stop buying more than ten miniatures a week, I should make some headway, right?  Although the miniatures I paint are to some degree influenced by my needs for the AD&D campaign, that game is on a brief hiatus. So I can use the opportunity to blow through some lead. First step: start with the shit on my desk.

Over the last 2 weeks, I’ve painted 20 miniatures. I’ve bought about 50. So I’m starting over. Monday-Monday…10 miniatures, no new purchases.

Starting now.

The Gun Store Heist: A SuperSystem 3 AAR

I have lots of HeroClix miniatures, but I never really got into the game. I hate the dials. While they’ve gotten better with each new release, some of the early miniatures were almost impossible to turn on the dial, resulting in more than one broken miniature from normal play. I lost count of how many Scarlet Witches I snapped off the dial, usually at the ankle.

Another thing that has improved with each new release is the overall quality of the paint jobs. Some of the early sets were atrocious. Even though they’ve improved, I touch up or completely repaint most of my HeroClix miniatures that I play with.

A little while ago I purchased SuperSystem 3 at the recommendation of pretty much everyone who plays superhero miniatures games. I decided it was time to try out my new gaming table, so I threw some scenery down, came up with a quick scenario and grabbed some Clix. First: our cast of characters:

Heroes for Hire

I’m a huge fan of Power Man and Iron Fist, so I decided they would be my heroes. I own a full run of the comic from the 70’s-80’s. Power Man is my favorite.  These are both repaints. Especially Iron Fist, since the figure I had was the “Experienced” one with the red costume, and that’s just wrong. I popped them off the dials and rebased them on urban bases.

Daughters of the Dragon

Hanging with our heroes are the gals from Nightwing Restorations, Misty Knight and Colleen Wing. Misty is Reaper’s Ebony Foxx, Mod Heroine (50179), and Colleen is RAFM’s Asp, Assassin. Asp doesn’t really look like Colleen Wing, but she’s the only modern girl with a katana I could find. (For some reason, the angle of this picture makes it look like someone beat the shit out of Misty Knight. She looks better than the picture would indicate.)

The Bad Guys: Constrictor, Scorpion and Shocker

I picked some bad guys of a similar power level. All of them have ranged attacks, too, which could be a challenge for the heroes, most of whom like to fight hand-to-hand.

Scorpion's Goons

Of course the bad guys need some henchmen, so I added some repainted and rebased Henchmen and Criminals, too.

The Scenario

Scorpion was never much of a deep thinker, but he knew one thing: guns meant money. If he could load up on guns (and bring his friends), he could make a killing. Guns were always in demand. Whatever he didn’t sell he could outfit his gang with. Maybe knock over an armored car or something down the road. Shocker and Constrictor, both recently out of jail, were looking for a piece of the action. Scorpion figured  his gang should be able to deal with any cops that show up. And if any super heroes try to butt in, the three of them should be able to handle it.

Power Man, Iron Fist, Misty Knight and Colleen Wing are enjoying a night on the town (in costume, of course) at the Gaslight Lounge. Just as they’re leaving, they hear a loud explosion followed by an alarm.

“That’s the next block,” says Misty. “The gun shop!”

Colleen draws her katana. Luke Cage cracks his knuckles and stretches his neck. “Looks like we get to bust some heads, eh, Fist?”

But Iron Fist is already in motion, moving swiftly across the street towards the sound of the alarm. Misty draws her trusty .357 Magnum just in time to see several rough-looking men begin to load a truck with crates. They notice the heroes and draw their own guns.

It’s on!

Setup

Initial Setup

I placed the thugs near the entrance of the gun shop, along with two vehicles. Their job was to load these trucks up and make off with the guns. The Shocker just blew the front door off the shop and is supervising the loading of the pickup, along with the Constrictor, who is supervising the loading of the Hummer. The Scorpion is atop an apartment building, overlooking the battle. The heroes are just coming out of the Gaslight across the street.

Round 1

I designated Iron Fist the leader for the heroes, and Scorpion the leader for the villains. The villains won the initiative for the first round.

Shocker jumps off the back of the truck and moves to the main street where he can get a clear shot at anyone coming around the corner of the Taco Temple. Meanwhile, Misty moves to cover behind a fence and shoots at the henchmen across the street. Despite having some cover from the dumpster and Hummer, Misty manages to drop 3 of the henchmen with some well-placed shots from her .357. Rubber bullets, of course.

The remaining three henchmen return fire, but miss Misty Knight. Iron Fist uses all his Action Points to move across the street towards the Taco Temple, trying to close the gap with the villains as fast as possible. The Constrictor makes his way around the other side of the Taco Temple towards Misty, intent on stopping her from dropping any more of the gang. Power Man moves his full AP, 7″, across the street, and walks right into Scorpion’s plasma blast. Scorpion scores 3 goals, enough to hit Cage smack in the chest. But damaging him is another matter. Aside from shredding his shirt, the blast does nothing to Cage but make him mad. Finally, Colleen darts across the street, using her full AP to get as close to Constrictor as possible.

End of Round 1

Round 2

This time around, the heroes get the initiative.

Misty fires at the Constrictor, wisely perceiving him to be the biggest immediate threat, but he bullets ricochet harmlessly off his armored costume. Since he’s not afraid of Misty’s rubber bullets, Constrictor wastes no time attacking Colleen. He scores enough net goals to entangle her in his electrified coils. Colleen is trapped and takes 4 vitality as the coils begin to constrict!

Colleen tries to break free and barely succeeds. She uses the rest of her AP to close the distance with Constrictor, but she can’t attack. The henchmen open fire on her scoring an impressive four goals, but Colleen scores five, so all of them miss.

Iron Fist runs at the Shocker, leaping into the air and delivering a vicious aerial back kick! He scores a net total of 8 goals to hit, which translates (after bonuses) into 13 goals worth of damage! Shocker’s padded costume allows him to resist 7 goals, but he still takes 6 vitality, which drops him to 1! Shocker is knocked back 4″ and is knocked prone. He’ll feel that one tomorrow.

Ka-POW!

Shaking his head to clear it, Shocker rises to his feet and levels a blast at Iron Fist. He manages to hit Iron Fist, scoring 3 vitality worth of damage. Iron Fist is knocked back 2″, but his Instant Stand power allows him to easily keep his footing and avoid being knocked prone.

Power Man rips a lamp post out of the ground and advances across the street.

Scorpion sees Iron Fist flatten Shocker. He climbs down the building and aims his tail at Iron Fist. He uses the rest of his AP and fires, but Iron Fist easily dodges.

Round 3

The villains get initiative.

Have a lamp post!

It doesn’t take a genius to figure out what Luke Cage wants to do with that lamp post. Thankfully, Scorpion is no genius. He fires his plasma blaster directly at the advancing Power Man, once again hitting him squarely. He achieves an impressive 6 goals, but Power Man shrugs the blast off yet again, taking no damage. In response, Power Man hurls the lamp post at Scorpion.  Scorpion is a pretty agile guy, so he manages to dodge out of the way completely. Cage spends his remaining AP to move 3″ closer to Scorpion.

Shocker backs off 3″ (getting some distance away from Iron Fist seems like a smart thing to do) and fires his vibro-gauntlets at Iron Fist again, but can’t seem to get a bead on him. Iron fist charges Shocker and in a flurry of blows drops the super-villain once and for all. Shocker fails his Resolve roll to stay on his feet and is KO’ed!

Constrictor decides putting some space between him and the katana-wielding Colleen Wing might be a good idea too, so he attempts to break away from combat in order to try to entangle her again. Unfortunately, since he doesn’t possess Combat Reflexes, Colleen Wing gets a free attack on him as he turns tail and runs. Turns out turning your back on a katana is a bad idea. Colleen slashes through his armored costume, doing a net 3 goals of damage. Constrictor curses and bleeds. Then he uses his remaining AP to move away 3″ and attack Colleen. His steel coils lash out and batter her for 5 goals, dropping Colleen to the ground like a wet bag of dirt. Colleen is KO’ed!

Misty Knight uses all her AP to get as far away from Constrictor as possible, and also get out of the line of fire of the Henchmen.

The Henchmen open fire anyway but miss Misty.

Round 4

Iron Fist rolls an impressive 7 goals to Scorpion’s 2, so the heroes get initiative.

Power Man charges the Scorpion, but fails to inflict any damage. Scorpion lashes out with his tail, intent on smacking Power Man’s head from his shoulders, but Cage dodges.

Constrictor moves closer to Misty by 3″ and tries to entangle, but Misty is too quick and gets out of the way. In response, she fires at Constrictor and hits, but once again fails to do any damage.

The Henchmen move towards and fire upon Iron Fist. They manage to hit him, but he resists all damage from the shot. He moves into base contact with the henchmen group. His Foresight power nullifies any extra combat dice the henchmen would have received for outnumbering him 3 to 1. Iron Fist attacks, and in a disappointing roll only manages to net one goal. Still, that’s enough to drop one henchman.

End of Round 4

Round 5

The heroes manage to hold onto initiative 5 goals to 4.

Luke Cage decides to try to end this quickly, so he winds up and throws a haymaker right at Scorpion’s jaw. Scorpion sees it coming a mile away and Power Man whiffs badly.

Constrictor attacks Misty, entangling her in his coils. He does a net 4 goals of damage, dropping Misty to a mere 3 vitality. Misty tries to break free, but not even her bionic arm can loosen the Constrictor’s coils!

The remaining two Henchmen attack Iron Fist in hand-to-hand, with predictable results. Iron Fist easily avoids their blows and neutralizes both of them with a battery of punches and kicks!

There's a reason he's called "The Living Weapon", you know...

Finally, Scorpion attacks Power Man, but fails to do any damage.

Round 6

The heroes score initiative yet again.

Misty tries to escape the coils of the Constrictor once more, but can’t. She doesn’t have enough AP for a second try. Constrictor starts pumping electricity through his coils. Misty grits her teeth from the pain but manages to resist any damage.

Iron Fist hears his lady-love screaming in agony, and uses all his AP to rush to her aid. He gets close to Misty, but that’s all he can do this round.

Scorpion finally manages to land a blow on Power Man for a net 2 goals of damage. Luke Cage loses 2 vitality, but easily resists the knockback. Power Man throws another haymaker and misses again.

End of Round 6

Round 7

The villains manage to seize the initiative this round.

Constrictor wastes no time in finishing Misty off. His electric coils shock her for a whopping 7 goals. Misty fails to resist any damage and fails her Resolve roll. Since she only had 3 vitality left, she is KO’ed!

Iron Fist charges Constrictor. He reaches down deep…summons his chi…channeling the power of his chi into his fist…until that fist becomes…LIKE UNTO A THING OF IRON! Thus strikes the mystic warrior of K’un L’un!

Iron Fist scores 8 goals on his attack. Constrictor only manages one. After all bonuses, Iron Fist nets 6 goals, which is enough to KO Constrictor. Constrictor fails his Resolve roll and is KO’ed!

Scorpion attacks Power Man again and misses, but is smart enough to know when he’s beaten. He uses his remaining AP to leave combat and flee up the side of the building. Power Man gets a free attack on him as he breaks away, but Scorpion proves too fast and scampers 5″ up the side of the building.

In response, Power Man walks over to another lamp post and rips it out of the ground.

Round 8

Both Iron Fist and Scorpion roll 5 goals for initiative. However, since the heroes’ AP total is highest, they get initiative.

Power Man moves 3″ closer to the building and hurls the lamp post at Scorpion. He hits, scoring a net 5 goals of damage, dropping Scorpion’s vitality to 3. I decide that getting smeared by a lamp post while clinging to a building might make it difficult to keep your grip, so I have Scorpion make a Difficult (3) Agility check to keep his grip or he’ll fall right into Power Man’s lap. Scorpion gets the required 3 goals and manages to hold on.

"You haven't seen the last of me!"

Scorpion chooses to flee and fight another day. He takes to the rooftops, vowing revenge! Game over!

End of Turn 8, and End of Game!

And that’s how my first foray into SuperSystem 3 worked out. I’m excited to play more games with different heroes. Although it was solo play, this game took me less than two hours, and that’s with me looking things up every other turn. I think once I get a good handle on the rules, games like this will go fast, allowing several scenarios or campaigns to  played in one day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Making Modular Roads

I thought I would share my method of making modular roads for tabletop gaming. My method is not particularly inexpensive or original. But I like the end result a lot, and I think it was worth it to spend the money and time that I did.

I’m using the World Works Games Streets of Mayhem and Urban Mayhem PDF sets. These sets retail for $11.50 each, and in my opinion are well worth it. Each street tile comes in gridless, 1 inch, and 1.5 inch grids; also the streets themselves come in clean, dirty or post-apocalyptic, for use in whatever style of game you’re playing. I opted to use dirty, 1 inch gridded tiles for mine, as I plan on using these roads for both superhero and zombie gaming. Here’s a selection of what you get. There are a lot of other things included, like asphalt/concrete tiles, parking lots, railways, and even a helipad. But I just used these basic tiles to construct my roads: straight, curved, 3-way and 4-way intersections.

Printing these out is where you will spend the most money. I recommend you print them on high-quality cardstock, since anything thinner may cause the glue to lift and/or bleed through when you mount them. Cardstock and ink aren’t cheap. Expect to go through an ink cartridge or two, depending on how many tiles you print. I scaled my tiles to 6″ x 6″. so that I could fit four of them on one of my 2′ x2′ modular boards.

One of these sets uses the TerrainLinx templates and one uses the new, friendlier TerraClips sets;  two different ways of joining these tiles together. Basically, each of these tiles is designed to be printed out and individually wrapped around foam core squares, which in turn clip together through pre-cut slots and pegs. The result is some mighty impressive and strong modular terrain. But who the hell has time for that? Not me.

I got around it by mounting the tiles on matboard, the same stuff you use to mat pictures. A 32″ x 40″ sheet cost me $8 or so at Michael’s. I chose black with a black core, since that was best for the roads. With that in mind I cut the matboard lengthwise into 6″ wide sheets (more or less) like so.

Once I had my strips, I started mounting the tiles. You can fit five tiles per strip with a little left over. I decided to make the road strips varying lengths, i.e. 3, 4 or even 5 tiles. I decided to mount the elbow curves and intersections individually for maximum customizability.

The strips are a little too wide for the tiles, which is something I did on purpose. Better to get them all mounted and trim later than have the tiles too wide for the board. Trimming them down is easy once they’re in place.

For the record, I recommend using a metal ruler with a cork back, as it won’t slip when you’re making a long cut. Unfortunately, I used this carpenter’s square and it slipped, completely ruining a length of road I had just mounted. I used some foul language then, I can tell you. Also, I recommend you don’t get shitfaced on Irish whiskey while making any long cuts, as you may forget and unknowingly allow the tip of your finger to protrude just a little bit into the path of the knife. That hurts.

You guessed it. More foul language.

Speaking of the knife, you may notice the foam board cutter I bought. This baby retails for a ridiculous $17.95 at any office supply or art store.

Don’t pay that much. It’s a fucking X-Acto knife. I got mine at Job Lot for $2.99. (I live in New England. We have Ocean State Job Lot. Folks from other parts of the country should check their bargain stores like Big Lots or Dollar Tree.)

Once mounted, the matboard is heavy enough that it lays flat (mostly). I made most of these roads in the time it took to listen to Led Zeppelin’s Presence.

I found out that 6″ x 6″ tiles are perfect for 15mm gaming. Of course,  I do 28mm. So they’re a little small for my needs. The roads themselves are not too bad, as I can still fit my 28mm vehicles on them with a little room on each side. Where it becomes obvious is the parking lot. I could fit a bunch of 15mm vehicles in the spaces, but one 28mm vehicle takes up half the lot. Oh well.

Here’s an example of what a road system looks like made up of the tiles I mounted.

So there you have it, my way of making roads. Not as cheap or quick as some black felt with white lines drawn on it, but I really like the level of detail in the WWG tiles and wanted to use them.

Comments welcome.

Trying Out the Table (with Zombies)

I’m gearing up to play my first game of No More Room in Hell, by Iron Ivan Games. I figured I’d set up the table with some appropriate terrain and the majority of my zombie and survivor miniatures to see if I need more minis and/or terrain or less space. Plus, it’s just fun.

All the zombies are from Wargames Factory, with the exception of the three or four Hasslefree zombified survivors. Survivors are from various companies. I will endeavor to identify them all in the pictures below.

Here’s the table all set up. The buildings and street tiles are from World Works Games’ Streets of Mayhem sets and from Model Paper World. The MPW stuff is FREE! so that’s always nice, but the WWG stuff is awesome and more than reasonably priced.  The various vehicles were purchased at CVS in their toy aisle. They’re all made in China (surprise) and retail for about 5 bucks each, although I bought a bunch when they were on special for 2 for 1. They constantly rotate their stock so every month I usually grab one or two. Various other terrain pieces are from Armorcast (like the dumpsters), Pegasus Hobbies and JR Miniatures.

Seems like the two chainsaw chicks got the same idea…raid the gun shop! One of them Is Hasslefree’s Ashley Campbell (who is actually facing off against the zombified version of herself), the other is Reaper’s Berklee, Zombie Survivor.

These funkadelic survivors square off against a pack of zombie dogs, from Mississinewa Minatures. Clockwise from left to right, the survivors are Horace “Action” Jackson, Ebony Foxx and Sly Withers, all from Reaper. Out front is Delilah, from RAFM.

Father Thomas tries to ward off the shambling horde with his cross. Good thing Rex has his trusty sawed-off to back him up. Both minatures are from Reaper. The zombies come from Hasslefree, Wargames Factory and Mississinewa.

Hey guys…don’t look now, but…

The not-Shaun and not-Ed are both from Hasslefree: Ray and Tony, respectively. The lurking hairy zombie is from Mississinewa.

Some folks just like to stomp zombies the old-fashioned way… with their bare hands. All the Z’s are from Mississinewa. El Diablo and Butch “Killer” Davis are both from Reaper, while Tanshiro is from Hasslefree.

When do you not trust a couple of clowns in an ice-cream truck? When they’re zombies!!!

The clowns are from Mississinewa, the rest of the Z’s are Wargames Factory.

Besieged by naked (and clothed) zombies. The naked ones are from Mississinewa. The more modest Z’s are from Wargames Factory.

Another view. The Elvis clone is The Pretender, from RAFM. The fireman in his jockstrap is Mad-Dog, one of my favorite Hasslefree miniatures.

Sometimes it’s better to call in the pros. On the left is RAFM’s Gloria with Uzis, center is Hasslefree’s Harby, and on the right is Hasslefree’s Cobra.

Not all cops protect and serve. Some are zombies.

These gangers are from Bobby Jackson’s Thugz line.

After a careful look at the table, I realize I’ll probably need more zombies. Good thing I still have the 40 Wargames Factory Zombie Vixens to paint, plus a few others like Reaper’s Zombie Strippers.

A 6′ x 4′ table full of terrain looks great, but I’m left wondering where I’m going to roll my dice without sending buildings and miniatures flying all over the place. Maybe I’ll only use a 4′ x4′ surface and roll the dice on either side of the play area.

Building a Gaming Table Part 3

So real life and the holidays got in the way for a while, but the gaming table is finally finished. I had to make another trip back to Home Depot for some last minute incidentals. I can’t remember how much I spent, but let’s just say the gaming table cost me an even 400 bucks in materials and beer. A heartfelt thanks to my baby brother.

My brother did a bunch of work on the table on his own, since I wasn’t able to get to his house as often as he liked (not that he ever really needed me there) and it was taking up room in his barn. Notice I referred to his garage/workshop as a barn. That’s because my brother read the two previous blog posts and has since set me straight:

“It’s not a garage, asswipe. It’s a fucking post-and-beam barn. If it was a fucking garage it would be made out of the same shit we built your table out of, not rough-sawn lumber. And it would have been put up in a day, not two months.” That’s pretty much verbatim.

Also, my tabletop is not (emphasis on the not) MDF board. It’s something else that I forget. Of course, it looks an awful lot like MDF board to me, but my brother has loudly and repeatedly assured me it is not.

So on my brother’s birthday(of all days) he decides to load up the table into his truck and drive to my place, where we will finally set it up in a room I have set aside for gaming. Of course, it didn’t really work out that way, because I am an idiot. I didn’t measure the doorway. To put it simply, the tabletop went in fine. The frame didn’t fit.

 Of course, we tried for about 2 hours. In the cold. Still wouldn’t fit.

So since my brother insisted on making this table to his bare minimum standards, the hardware was under facing boards and wood glue. Everything had been sanded. We couldn’t just take a couple of legs off and work our way in. We had to cut the table in half. Well, he cut the table in half. I stood there in shame and tried my best not to utter a sound. 

So, after reassembly with an additional crossbrace and some bolts, here is the table. Right next to my painting area.

My brother constructed the tabletop out of a sheet of plywood cut into three panels. That way I can use it as a workbench, which I will be doing very soon as I construct some World Works Games buildings. When I want to game, the panels lift out to reveal the emphatically not-MDF board game surface beneath. Like so:

Note the shelf underneath holds some modular pinkboard. It’s supposed to be 2′ x 2′ square, but like almost everything else sold at Home Depot, the measurements are off. (“Square” is defined differently at Home Depot.) I bought six and painted one side green and one side gray, for rural and urban terrain surfaces. Once the plywood panels are off the table, the pinkboard fits right in and is held snug by the framing boards. Like this:

At least that was how it was supposed to go. Even foamboard this small warps, and each one of the tiles is warped in some way. That plus the aforementioned shitty Home Depot dimensions makes them a bit of a problem. You can’t really tell from the picture, but it can be a very uneven join. I can get around this by covering the joins with roads, or I can just do what my brother says and get one big piece of foamboard, make sure it fits the table, then make my own cuts. More work and more painting, but whatever.

My brother is insisting I re-sand the table, especially since he had to cut it again. He’s also insisting I stain it and polyurethane it. I told him I’d think about it. But I’m definitely not waiting to do any of that before I use it.

Let the games begin!

Building a Gaming Table: Part 2

So it’s taking a little longer than expected, which is primarily due to the fact that my brother still doesn’t want to build me a basic table. To give him credit, he came up with a much cooler idea than I did. So, to make a long story short, we scrapped the two shelves below the playing surface, instead opting for one. Originally, the tabletop was supposed to be a sheet of plywood covered by the sheet of MDF board. That’s no longer happening, either. Now the MDF will be below the plywood, which will be easily removable for gaming purposes, but able to be used as a workbench whenever I want simply by keeping the plywood in place. That way, my brother said, if I want to play a game ten years from now, all I have to do is remove the plywood sheets and I’m good to go.

A return trip to Home Depot was in order. I returned the two 4′ x 8 ‘sheets of sub-flooring, which were going to be the shelves, and instead bought two more 4′ x 8’ sheets of sanded plywood at my brother’s request (since he can’t stand the thought of using sub-flooring as a shelf when it will look like shit).  I bought some other stuff as well, listed below; and  of course, more beer.

My new acquisitions:

(2) 4 x 8 sanded BC pine plywood sheet: $71.54

(4) 1″ x 6″ x 144″ premium pine boards: $54.68

(2) 2″ x 4″ x 96″ pine studs: $5.44

(1) bottle of Tite-Bond wood glue: $5.47

More beer: $30.11

Subtotal with Tax: $175.81

Credit for returned sub-flooring: -$42.44

Total new charges: $133.37

Add that to my previous total, and I’m into this thing for $337.91 already. Way more than I wanted to spend, but remember that $58.05 of that is just beer (and that number is certain to go higher).

We got the framework for the top of the table together last time. We added a couple of cross-braces to support the tabletop, and got to work cutting the MDF board to fit the dimensions of the tabletop. For the record, MDF board likes to be cut upside-down, otherwise a circular saw will tear the shit out of your playing surface. We tested it first to be sure. A generous application of wood glue and the judicious use of a finishing nail gun, and the MDF was attached to the framework. We clamped it and let it sit overnight.

I went home, and over the next two days my brother managed not only to run his normal landscaping business and single-handedly build his staircase to the top floor of his barn, but he also put together the frame work for the table legs. I arrived last night with more beer (+$9.29) to find this:

We cut the shelf, now made from plywood, and fitted it to the frame with glue and finishing nails. Then he screwed the tabletop to the frame with an impact driver (so we can remove it later if we need to), which, as you can see, is now recessed MDF. The recess is 1 1/8″, so the 1″ modular pinkboard I will use as a play surface will fit nicely and won’t slide around too much. Plus, the remaining 1/8″ recess should be negligible and won’t piss me off when I’m pushing lead around.

Despite my repeated requests, my brother finds it completely unacceptable that this table looks like what it is: a workbench. So he insists we face the studs with flat boards to cover the framework because that way  “it’s better than staring at fucking studs all day long.” We tipped it on its side and did the framing on the front and side legs of one side. And that’s where we left it.

I’m supposed to go back Sunday to finish the rest, which will include framing the sides and the shelf and finishing the top. My brother has already told me we will be taking another trip to Home Depot first, where I’ll get to return another sheet of plywood and buy some more framing materials. He’s not going to let me take it out of his workshop without staining and polyurethaning it, too, so I guess I’ll be buying that stuff as well.

And of course, I’ll be buying more beer.

Building a Gaming Table

I have decided I am going to build a dedicated gaming table. Actually, to be honest, I’m just going to hold the tools and buy the beer and the materials, since I can just about use a screwdriver without losing an eye. My brother is going to build it for me, since he actually knows how to build shit. Like his garage, which he built by himself.

  And some interior shots of the garage/workshop. He’s still adding a staircase to the upper level.

Needless to say, a gaming table isn’t beyond his ability. In fact, it’s hardly worth his time, seeing how he doesn’t share my hobby and thinks that grown men who play with miniatures are obviously dorks.

This table is a kind of last-ditch effort to get my friends into playing miniatures games every once in a while in addition to our regular RPG sessions. The first problem I encountered was convincing my brother to build a gaming table to my standards and not his. Namely, a basic, no-frills 8’x4′ table with some shelving underneath, made out of pine 2×4’s and some plywood. As I get older, I play less and less. So I didn’t want anything fancy. Merely something that could be a game table for now, and one day be used as a workbench, since in all likelihood that’s what it will eventually become.

My brother had other ideas, mostly involving building me an artesanal table out of hardwood, with a fold-away playing surface and lots of drawers and storage options. I had a hard time convincing him that this was a utilitarian piece of furniture. Meant to hold scenery and miniatures and be able to stand up to large men leaning on and over it. He had lots of great ideas on how to make a really nice table, but all I need is a bare-bones playing surface.

My lack of artistic vision and aesthetics, at least when it comes to stuff like  this, disgusts my brother.

After realizing just how fucking big an 8’x4′ table is, I decided to shorten it to roughly 6’x4′. The official dimensions of the table are 74″ L x 48″ W x 38″  H. There will be a 1 1/8″ recess on the top of the table to hold 1″ pink board tiles (which are the gaming surface). There will also be 2 shelves below the playing surface, roughly the same dimensions as the tabletop.

Yesterday we started building the table. Here’s what we got from Home Depot. (The table saw isn’t mine).

(6) 2 x 4 x 96 pine studs: $16.32

(4) 1 x4 x96 pine framing strips: $7.96

(3) 2 x 6 x 144 pine boards: $22.26

(2) 4 x 8 sub flooring sheets (the shelves): $39.94

(1) 4 x 8 3/16th tempered mdf hardboard sheet: $13.98

(1) 4 x 8  sanded BC pine plywood sheet: $35.77

(1) 5lb. box 2.5″ deck screws: $29.98

On the way back to the workshop we stopped for beer. Real, actual beer. Not the “Coors Lite” my brother drinks.

Beer: $27.94

TOTAL WITH TAX: $204.54

We got all the initial cuts done. I even used a mitre saw without losing any digits. We manged to knock together the frame for the tabletop before it got too dark and we called it a day. (My brother doesn’t have lights in his garage yet. Or anything resembling heat.)

I’m going back tonight to finish it off. Hopefully it will be installed and ready for play by the end of the week.

Happy Halloween

In honor of the coming holiday, I’ve decided to post some spooky-themed fantasy miniatures from my ongoing AD&D 3.5 campaign. My players  ran into most of these guys over the course of the last year.

First up is the old good witch/bad witch combo. The players first ran into the nice, pretty witch who was being blamed for the disappearance of some children. After a quick visit to her house in the woods, they had a hard time believing she was anything but  a nice lady. Turns out she was really an evil hag in disguise. The good witch is Reaper’s Selmarina (Reaper 02682), the bad one is Wyrd’s Zoraida the Hag, from their Malifaux line. The gravestone on Selmarina is from a GW zombie sprue, the one on Zoraida was part of the original base of the scarecrow, below. The pumpkins are from Reaper’s pumpkins and jack o’lanterns set (Reaper 02992). The stakes on Zoraida’s base are from Lance & Laser.

After finding out the witch really was to blame, the party returned ready for a fight. They got one from her guardian golem, Gourdy. They were forewarned, however, by her unwilling servant, Cobb the scarecrow, who travels with them still. Cobb is a RAFM Shrieking Scarecrow (RAFM 03856), while Gourdy is Reaper’s Rotpatch, Pumpkin Golem (Reaper 03377). Cobb’s post is scratch-built, and the leaves are from Hudson and Allen studios.

The players ran into these spooky ghosts while plundering… er, I mean exploring a tomb. The one on the left is a Reaper Spectral Minion (Reaper 14327) mounted on a Malifaux graveyard base. The others are from an OOP GW Spirit Host. They were all designed to fit on one base, but I separated them and individually based them. Nothing particularly impressive about the paint job, but it looks ghostly enough for me. I was tempted to paint the spirit hosts ghosts as the chocolate, vanilla and strawberry ghosts from The Scooby-Doo Show S1 E15: The Ghost of the Bad Humor Man, but decided against it.

Last are some odds and ends. Nicodem, the Undertaker from Wyrd’s Malifaux line served a necromancer with a vulture familiar, and was the very first “boss” the party encountered in the campaign. I tried to paint him in a monochromatic color scheme, but found it difficult. Still, I like the overall effect. He’s mounted on a Malifaux graveyard base. Next to him is an old Reaper miniature, Jean-Paul DuChamps, Werewolf (Reaper 02139). He actually never made an appearance in the game, but I included him anyway because I painted him over the last year in between other projects.

Happy Halloween to all!